Sunday, April 8, 2012

Am I Ukrainian?

Hello Everyone!


Wow, this is a record for not updating the ole blog. I will start from where I left off. For Christmas, Danielle and I decided not to join the big groups of volunteers but to instead just have a small group of people come to Khartsizsk. It was me, Danielle, Janine, Johanna, and Charlie – we exchanged gifts, had a nice meal, and celebrated with a few of my Ukrainian friends. Danielle got everyone in the Christmas spirit and made us all stockings with our names on them (in Russian) and she gave me an awesome Russian hat and a scarf to help me keep warm in the cold Ukrainian winter. I gave her a Russian version of Monopoly and a few little presents. We thought that it would be a snow-free Christmas but at the last minute it snowed which was very nice. I miss having Christmas with family but this was still awesome.


For New Years, we all got together for a nice celebration and went for a walk to the central square. New Years is a much bigger than Christmas here and the celebration was quite large. There were probably a couple thousand people that meet at the Christmas tree in the center of the town. It was fun, everyone danced and had a great time. We (Danielle, Johanna, and I) thought that everyone would meet at the New Year's tree at midnight but we ended up being the only people there lol. Turns out Ukrainians spend time with there families until after midnight and then they all meet at the tree.


In January, we had a very important meeting for our little NGO “Step Forward”. The deputy director of Peace Corps, my manager, the director of PC Ukraine, and the PC Ukraine desk manager all came to my little town to meet with my counterparts and hear what we have been doing. I gave a 20 min presentation, answered some questions, and organized a lunch for everyone after the meeting. It was very nice to meet the deputy director and I think the meeting helped energize my counterparts to continue doing good work in the community. It was kinda funny because we all met in our little office (9 people) and there was a few journalists there from the local newspaper and TV station. Our office is pretty small so the camera man was literally 2 feet away from me with a huge TV camera the whole time I was giving the presentation – It was kinda nerve racking but overall it was a great success.


In January, I also attended the opening of a new monument to a famous Russian author that spent a little time in our town. It was kinda a funny situation because I was not familiar with this author and one of my Ukrainian friends pointed out to one of the TV journalists that there is an American in the crowd. Lol The journalist proceeded to interview me about my thoughts of this famous author and the new statue that was dedicated to him. Once again, I was in a very uncomfortable position and couldn't help but laugh about the situation. I kept to general information that one could say about any famous author so I think I didn't make too much of an ass of myself. :-)


Danielle's sister Nikki visited us for a few days which was nice. It is always nice to hear an outsider's impressions of Ukraine and our little community. We definitely gave her some unique experiences to remember Ukraine. We went Ice swimming in the local river which is always a huge rush. Like I mentioned last year, it is so cold that it actually feels hot. After freezing our @#%$*'s off, we rented a Russian sauna with some friends of mine. It was a really good time and I think everyone enjoyed themselves.


In February, we has a surprise interview by a national TV station based out of Donetsk. I thought it would be another small interview where I answer general questions about why I am in Ukraine and what our organization in doing but once again Ukraine won. The score is now Ukraine 5,352 - Conor 3. The interview ended up being at a professional news studio with ton's of cameras and some of the interview was in the Ukrainian language. I think it went ok though and helped get the word out about our projects.


After the interview, I caught an overnight train to Kiev to pick up my friends Josh and Derek at the airport. It was so awesome to see them. I couldn't wait to show them around Ukraine and give them a taste of my life in Ukraine. We spent a few days in Kiev just seeing the sights and catching up. We went to a ballet, sampled all the Ukrainian food I could think of, and I introduced them to some Ukrainian/Russian vodka. :-) It was awesome. After showing them around Kiev, we caught an overnight train to Donetsk which proved to be one of the funnest train rides I have had so far. We purchased some snacks for the train and proceeded to chat when josh met a few people from the compartment a few doors down from ours. Josh's new friends were very friendly and we all joked and talked throughout the night. They shared some very good Ukrainian food with us and we shared some treats that Josh and Derek brought from the US. We arrived in Donetsk very early in the morning and made our way by bus to my little town. Josh and Derek met some of my Ukrainian friends, helped with my English clubs, and learned a bit of Russian. We even made it to a Russian sauna in a neighboring city which was a bit sketch but a lot of fun. Unfortunately, I had a PEPFAR training to manage so during 2 of the days that they were here, they were on their own which had me a bit worried. Turns out they did just fine and even were able to purchase a hot dog on their own. :-) I think we all had a great time and seeing them again helped remind me of who I was before I left for the Peace Corps. Those two are my best friends and I can't wait to see them again when I get back to the states.


March has been a big reality check for me. I attended the closing conference for my Peace Corps group (#38). We all came to Ukraine together over 2 years ago and have all had very different and varied experiences. I had not seen some of these volunteers for almost 2 years but we are all bonded from our Peace Corps service and it was really nice to see everyone. Over the last 2 years, we lost almost 16% of the original volunteers that came to Ukraine. Some quit early because they couldn't handle it, others because of family or personal issues, and a few more for medical reasons. The ones that remain are proud of their service and love this country, but most are uncertain of the impact that they have had. Most of us (myself included) have some successes that are measurable but most of the changes and differences we have made here are not measurable and it will never be clear exactly how we have impacted the lives of the people we worked with, the organizations we have helped, or the relationships we have made. I guess that comes with the territory but I think the biggest positive impact we have had has been on the Ukrainian youth. I have seen a change in attitude, behavior, and perspective – this makes me proud and gives me hope for the future but again, you can't measure this. My friend Kim organized a very nice sideshow that pretty much summed up the last two years and to be honest, it was a bit emotional. Everyone is trying to figure out what to do next and we have found that after 2 years living in a different culture with different values that some of our own values and priorities have changed.


I have been trying complete the Journalism project and the HIV/AIDS project but challenges keep coming up. Both projects have been behind schedule and it has been very frustrating. The newspaper has finally been produced however I don't know how sustainable it will be but I am happy that we were at least able to take the first step. If the organization wants to continue the Journalism center, they can and now thay have the foundation to do so which means the project was at least successful in that aspect. I have realized just how difficult it is to develop the 3rd sector in Ukraine (NGO, volunteer sector). Most people that are open, willing, and able to work for NGOs are the youth however at some point, they must start their careers, families, and lives which makes the sustainability of any NGO very difficult. After two years of working for this NGO, we have completed projects, gained experience, developed relationships with partner organizations, and have developed a foundation for which to grow the organization. The main members of the primary NGO that I have been working with all have lives that are changing. One of them just had a new baby boy, the other will be graduation university soon, and the third just purchased a new business. It is simply too difficult to make a living while working for a new NGO and it takes a minimum of 5 years before the NGO has enough experience and a good enough reputation to qualify for any of the major grants/programs that allow them pay for full time employees at the NGO. I understand if my coworkers stop working with the NGO but it would be sad to see all of these opportunities for development fade away.

Last week, I helped Danielle with a Girl's Empowerment Camp that she organized at her school. We thought it would be good to hear from a Man about gender equality, roles, and stereotypes. It was kinda funny being the only man there for 3 days but the girls really enjoyed the camp and I think they got something out of it. I was happy to help with this camp because I wanted to start a gender equality project of my own but nobody at my organization wanted to help. It is simply a different culture – gender equality is just not a priority at least not for the older generation.

I have about 7 weeks left of my Peace Corps service and there is much work to be done. I have a million reports to write about my projects and I need to start summing up my service. I have decided to stay in Ukraine for a while after my service ends in order to be a volunteer manager with the Euro 2012 football championship, spend time with Danielle & my Ukrainian friends, and to go on a final trip with Danielle to Germany and the Czech Republic. I should be back in the states sometime in July. It will be very sad to say goodbye to everyone – I have created a life here and have come to call Ukraine home but at the same time, I have been away from family for too long and I need be home. I can't wait to see everyone.

Conor's Noteworthy Noteables:

  1. Josh and Derek's visit – awesome! I love those guys.
  2. Going on a camping trip with an army veteran's NGO in Crim. I went with them a year and a half ago and it was amazing. All the food we will eat for over a week will be on our backs. I can't wait for the simplicity of nature, camp fires, sleeping under the stars, and spending time with friends.
  3. Decided to head home in July. Awesome and exciting but sad and horrifying at the same time.
  4. Had a nice long phone conversation with my nephew Logan. I can't wait to see the McBrides and meet my niece Madi for the first time (almost 2 years old – crazy).
  5. My brother Fer has been calling more lately. Always nice to chat. I hope it can make it to Bozeman with me in July.
  6. The NGO I work with (“Step Forward”) is gaining more and more influence in the community. I hope they continue to provide excellent project for the town of Khartsizsk.
  7. I need to find out how to renew my VISA so that I can stay after Peace Corps.





Christmas 2011



New hat and scarf from Danielle and gloves from the fam

New Years Tree

Oleg, Carrie, Olga, Me, Sergey, Arkadiy, Sasha, Stacy

Lunch with PC


Ice Swimming

Russian Sauna

Russian Sauna 2


Me and some of our volunteers

TV interview Donetsk


Derek and Josh's visit

Derek, Josh, and I in Kiev

Trying some Ukrainian/Russian food

Josh, Derek, and Danielle - Bell tower Kiev

Ballet Kiev

HIV/AIDS training

Woman's Empowerment Camp

Camp 2
COS conference - PC Ukraine Group 38 --- March 2010 - May 2012

Training Cluster & Link.  Kim, Amy, Vickie, Sherral, John, Caroline, Me, D, Cassie

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Ukrainian Conor

Hello all!


Ok...Today I am updating the blog. Finally. I should have done this a month ago but to be honest, it has been a bit difficult here lately and I just have not been in the mood to update anything. It has been a number of things that are causing this; the weather has been overcast for almost 2 months, it is always difficult to be away from family during the holidays, I have been trying (unsuccessfully) to plan what I want to do after Peace Corps, and most importantly my Grandma will be passing away soon and I am a million miles away and unable to be there for my Mom and my family. Brutal to say the least. Skype just is not enough sometimes. I want to go home but I simply can't afford it and the only other alternative is to end my Peace Corps service early so that Peace Corps will pay for my plane ticket but I have come so far here and so many people are relying on me that that would be devastating. My family insists that it is not necessary but (no offense) I don't believe that they would tell me that they want me to come home even if they did because they know I have come a long way here and they don't want to stop me from doing anything. It is probably a combination of all the things I stated earlier that makes me think this but I can't help but worry.


Anywho, what have I been up to over the last two months? I will try to keep things positive because I have had many great experience since I last posted even though things are a bit difficult now so let me explain. After my last post, I went on an amazing trip with my Uncle. It was great to spend time with my uncle and to catchup. The adventure started at 4:00 AM in my sleepy, cold, little town in Eastern Ukraine. I got up early to catch the first bus to Donetsk so that I would have plenty of time to catch my flight to Kiev and then to Athens. Given that public transportation is not always the most reliable thing in Ukraine, I wanted to make sure I had plenty so that I wouldn't be Ukrained (A term used by peace corps volunteers when unexpected events occur in Ukraine that stops our plans – it happens often). So, I catch a bus at 5:00 am and am surprised with how packed the bus was and was delighted to have found a seat on the bus. There was probably 50 people on a bus that was built for only 30 so I got a few stern looks for having my big suitcase with me. Lol When I arrived in Donetsk, I called a taxi only to find out that the first 3 out of 4 taxi numbers I have were not working. Lol Nice try Ukraine but I came prepared with 4 different taxi numbers. I got to the airport 3 hours early and proceeded to wait. Everything went pretty smooth from here. The flight to Kiev was a bit late but I still had a comfortable amount to time to catch my flight to Athens however they tried to make me pay extra money because my bag was overweight but thankfully, I could see how disorganized they were so when they demanded that I go to a specific person to pay a fee, I simply got on the plane. Lol I don't think my bag was overweight anyway. When I arrived in Athens, the person that was supposed to be waiting for me was nowhere in sight. No big deal, if I can get around Ukraine, Greece will be easy. I eventually found someone else that was working for the same company and insisted that they take me to where I would meet my uncle. It was great to see him again and after a brief greeting, we headed off to eat some sushi with some other people that will be our dinner mates for the rest of the trip. It was amazing! My palate has been so deprived lately, I felt like I was in heaven eating ambrosia and chasing it down with angel tears. Fantastic. I am pretty sure I gained 15 pounds on my vacation with Bob. We had a nice conversation with our table mates who were a group of ladies from Maine - married, friendly, and fun to talk to. We departed from Athens that night and headed to Santorini Greece. I remember being here many years ago but it was still breath taking. Beautiful little town on the cliffs, whitewashed, and picturesque in every direction. Bob and I took a tram up the cliff and into town though I remember walking up last time though there was lots of Donkey dropping in the path. We walked around the town, had some delicious coffee overlooking the sea, and took many beautiful photos. At around lunch time, Bob headed back to the boat so I decided to walk out of the town and into the less touristy areas. I tried to do this at every port we visited because the touristy areas are definitely beautiful and interesting but it can be difficult to get a feel for the culture and what life is really like if you don't venture out of these areas though I did get lost a few times.


After Santorini and many large and delicious meals later, we arrived at Ashdod, Israel. Israel was definitely one of the highlight of our trip. Israel has so much history, conflict, and energy that it was amazing to simply walk around, see the sights, and see everything in person. Israel has been in the news a lot so it was great to be able to see it first hand. We were in Israel for only two days but they were full days and we tried to get the most out of every minute. We toured around Jerusalem, swam in the Dead Sea, and went to the Holocaust museum. We saw many young soldiers at the museum holding large assault rifles which was weird to see because they looked like mere children but there service in the army is definitely a big part of the culture. Their training in the service not only includes extensive army training but it is also mandatory to go to the museums and learn about the history of the country and about the many different cultures and religions that reside in Israel. The Dead sea was amazing. It is the lowest land point on the planet being over 1,300 feel below sea level. It has the appearance of a desert climate and you can see Jordan from across the sea. Very beautiful but the best part was swimming in the sea. It was a very strange sensation. I would lay down on my stomach in the sea with my feet, head, and arms above the water and I wouldn't sink. You could just push off and float on your stomach, it was incredible and almost felt like flying. You could also just stand in the water without touching the ground and just float with your hands above your head with the water only coming up to your waist. It was really funny because sometime people would roll on the stomach and they would not be able to right themselves. Lol Good times.


After Israel, we headed to Limassol, Cyprus. This was another beautiful town. Followed by Iraklion Greece, Mykonos Greece, Kusadasi Turkey, and then Istanbul Turkey. Bob and I went on a quad excursion in Iraklion that was incredible (small 4 wheel individual vehicles). There was a large group of us (15 people) that went and I am sure we all had a great time. It was really fun to see the sight while doing doughnuts in a quad. Lol Good stuff. I almost tipped the quad at one point but thankfully, I am quite tall and was able to push with one leg to right myself before I tipped. Bob was hauling ass in the quad as well. I tried to follow him but he was zipping around too fast. It was great. We even stopped at a small waterfall to swim and relax for min. The waterfall was probably about 25 feet high and for some reason or another, I decided to jump off the waterfall. Probably not the smartest thing I have ever done but definitely worth it. When I hit the water, my feet touched the bottom – that could have been bad. It was weird to be back in Kusadasi and Istanbul because I was there only a few months earlier with some Peace Corps friends traveling via public transport and staying in hostels which was just a little bit different than the five star accommodations my uncle and I were staying in. lol Overall, the trip with Bob was wonderful. Some of my favolite times were when Bob and I would simply lay back in a cocktail lounge sipping on martinis or eating sushi together at the sushi bar while talking about love, life, politics, family, memories, and the meaning of the universe. Bob, if you are reading this, thank you so much for the wonderful experiences, memories, and adventures that you have been so kind to take me on over the years. I hope to someday be able to return the favor.


Upon returning from the trip with Bob,it was a bit of a shock adjusting back to my life in Ukraine. I love my life here but going from amazing trips, food, sights, and experiences with family to coming back to Ukraine where the winters are cold & dark (sun sets at 3:30) - it took some time to readjust but obviously it was well worth it. There was some good news to help with the adjustment when I returned – the grants I had writing were approved! :-) We will now be starting a newspaper for the youth in my community and we will implement an extensive HIV/AIDS project in Ukraine that will involve many different organizations, schools, and people throughout the community. I am really looking forward to starting these projects but I am a little nervous that something will go wrong because we are relying on so many different people and organizations to come together to accomplish these projects and schedules, appointments, and being on time is not a cultural strong point in Ukraine though things do tend to workout fantastically here somehow so I probably shouldn't worry. I have also been selected to be a volunteer manager for the Euro 2012 football championship in Donetsk in June! This is huge news because they had over 10,000 people apply. This will be a great experience and I really hope to include the organization I work with in my community to assist with the championship somehow. We shall see.


Thanksgiving was nice a quiet. There was a big gathering of PC volunteers in Donetsk but Danielle and I are kind of over big PC gatherings. The volunteers are great but every 6 months a group goes home to the US so every gathering has new volunteers which makes these gatherings seem a bit impersonal. I decided to take Danielle out for a nice meal at one of the few restaurants in town. We had a very nice evening and we even danced a little. It was nice and there were no other customers at the restaurant so we had the entire place to ourselves.


On December 1st (World AIDS day), my organization and I organized a HIV/AIDS awareness concert complete with a mobile testing unit from an organization in Makeevka. It was great and we attracted a lot of people. There was not as many statistics mention at the concert as I would have liked but it was still good and there was a good turnout and we were featured in the local newspaper again.


Last week I was a guest speaker at a Globalization conference at a University in Donetsk. They asked me to prepare a presentation for the conference so I decided to talk about Globalization and how it affects cultures. I gave many examples from my travels around Costa Rica, Guatamala, and South America. When I arrived at the University, I found a large banner saying “Globalization and Culture” which was comforting because I was worried that I may not have understood everything that was said over the phone. There was over 150 college students at the conference including many professors and a few deans. I was the first to give my presentation which was fine – I am now more or less comfortable in these situation so I proceeded to give my presentation (15 – 20 min) and I felt it went very well and then I got Ukrained. All of the other presentation made by other people was only about culture. People gave presentation about the American culture, some people from Nigeria gave a presentation about their culture and nobody talked at all about globalization which was the main topic of my presentation. Lol So I checked again and indeed the large banner hanging over the podium definitely said Globalization and Culture so I asked one of the professors and she confirmed that the presentation is only about different cultures. Lol Not a big deal – my presentation did have a lot of information about different cultures, everyone still enjoyed my presentation, and they thought it was interesting - I was even invited back this Saturday but I can't help but laugh about the whole situation. Current score: Ukraine 4,258 – Conor 2


This Christmas will be more laid back than last Christmas (I was in Cairo). Danielle, Johanna, Gene, Charlie, and I will meet in my community for a quiet Christmas amongst friends. It will be nice and Danielle is doing everything she can to get everyone in the Christmas spirit which includes Christmas lights, traditional X-mas food, stockings, and a makeshift Christmas tree. My Ukrainian friends will celebrate Christmas on January 7th so while I won't be able to celebrate with the fam this year, I will have 2 Christmases! :-) We are also planning a celebration for New Years (which is bigger than X-mas in Ukraine) with the kids in my community (btw...I keep referring to my city as “my community” because I am not supposed to write the name of the city in my blog).



Conor's Noteworthy Noteables:

  1. I received a care package from my sister and parents and I have one on the way from my loving aunt Kelly. Thank you so much!
  2. Two of my Ukrainian friends had babies recently which mean huge celebrations. I am still recovering from one of them now. :-) Good times.
  3. I bought Danielle a toilet seat for X-mas. Lol her's has been broken for months and she has not had the money to fix it. I will also get her something else too so don't worry. :-)
  4. I sent a bunch of X-mas cards so hopefully it won't take 3 months to get there this time.
  5. I have a few cards and presents from family back in the US which I will wait to open until Christmas. Thank you for your support and love. You all rock!
  6. We have started to train a group of 50 new kids in my community at the volunteer center. They are good kids hopefully we will start a new project with them soon.
  7. I am trying to start something with the kids from the orphanage but there seems to but a lot of red tape to get through first. It seems like we have to convince people to let us help. We already took the kids to the planitarium in Donetsk a few weeks ago and I thought it went very well. These kids have had some tough lives so I really hope we can help somehow. We are looking into starting a “Big Brothers Big Sisters” like program. Bob, I may call you soon to discuss this Idea with you.
  8. My idea to start a woman’s rights project might be a no-go. Nobody seems to think it is an issue and I don't want to try to start a project that will push my cultural values on someone else's culture.


Bob and I in Santorini



Soldiers at the Holocaust Museum






Dead Sea

Masada Fortress & Dead Sea


Bob in the Dead Sea

Quads in Iraklion

Who is taller?




Me and Bobo



Our Dinner Mates

Istanbul

Me, Olga, and Daniella

Kids from the Orphanage

Volunteer Center Kids

HIV/AIDS day

Globalization Conference - Donetsk University